Saturday, March 5, 2011

March 4 Perspective

We say our goodbyes to Panama City and our host families after Dim Sum breakfast, and we're off to get Alicia from her hosts, Andy and Rosalyn Guillen. Their home is perched on top of a hill and hour outside of the city. It is a walled compound with horses, many guard dogs, and a swimming pool. It was the feel of a drug cartel ranch I've seen in movies. There is some sadness in the car as we leave, as Alicia had a great experience getting to know them.

We had been informed that Carnival is such a big event, that Rotary clubs would not host us on the weekend, as basicallyt the whole country has plans. Luckily for us, we are in the company of Juan Varela, grandson to the founder of Varela Brothers, the largest producer and distributor of Rum in Panama. We are his guests for the entire weekend, on his estate 4 hours outside of the city.

We travel in 2 SUVs with chauffeur's, stopping for a lunch that includes blood sausage (very good), and Piquillos, a small semi-spicy pepper stuff with scallops in a cream sauce. We arrive to the estate, which is expansive and beautiful. More details will come in day 6, as we have a full tour scheduled. A walk along the sugar cane fields, a quiet dinner, and there is a calmness that makes us think maybe we'll get to bed early.

We were WRONG. Juan gets a burst of energy, and we all pile into the SUVs and head back to the closest town with some Carnival. Kim went for a nap after dinner, and she's unwakeable. We're off without her. What's in store for us? Will we get soaked, stampeded, robbed? Upon arriving Juan explains that Friday is just a warm-up night, and the town we're in hosts a smaller Carnival. The further from the city, the larger the Carnival, so it seems.

There are two parallel streets, with a large square that joins them in the middle. We join some of Juan's family on the side of the square, and the magic begins. Tonight the two queens from last year will be on display, and tomorrow they will pass their crowns to the new queens (upper and lower street). The procession begins. A few people. A tractor pulling a decorated float. The upper queen from 2010 is dancing on the float in an exotic, hand-made outfit. There are 3 young girls dancing in matching outfits as well. Another tractor. This one pulls a trailer full of musicians...horns and percussion hammer out simple, but very rhythmic songs. A thick, young crowd follows closely behind, dancing and shouting. We are starting to understand. It's exciting to watch.

We are on the move, walking around to check out the food and vendors. We stumble upon the lower queen, and her procession starts. We watch from up close as they pass...another band, another decorated float...and fall in line with the crowd behind the band. We get looks from the kids, as we're not a common site for Friday nights.

As we arrive to the square, we realize the upper queen's procession has looped around and is now on the correct street. Both bands are playing into the square, almost as if to see who can be louder. Fireworks are being lit from cardboard boxes, and it's feeling magical. We're all grinning from ear to ear, and turn to wave to our host, who we had left on the balcony for our walk. He is there, sitting beside his wife, Ada, and he is sleeping. SLEEPING!! There are loud fireworks, a couple thousand yelling and dancing people, and two very noisy bands, and he is TKO with a front row seat. Amazing.

The bands die down and the fireworks are getting better. The lack of safety features is a little frightening, but I assure you that the fireworks we witnessed on 'warm-up' night in this poor village would rival something you'd see on Canada Day in a major city. Shock and amazement plastered on our faces, we are heading home. Tonight will go on, but it seems many are saving up for tomorrow...I can't imagine how crazy it will be.

Mark and I are not staying with Doug and the girls this weekend on the estate. We are 5 minutes away in a large 3 bedroom apartment that is part of the bottling facility they own in the town. It's 1am, but Mark blogs on the porch for an hour, and I call my girlfriend Laura to check in for the first time.

We are fortunate that Juan has taken us in, and is sharing not only his amazing family estate with us, but also ensuring we see this amazing cultural event from a front row seat. He is a kind man, who has a rich knowledge of the culture and history of Panama. He can eat and talk more than anyone I've ever met, and he likes to do both at once! He speaks in a manner that reminds me of Marlon Brando's Godfather character Don Vito Corleone, which makes it that much more enjoyable.

Soon it will be Carnival!

CGD

3 comments:

  1. Curt, your blogs are fantastic! Thanks so much for keeping us updated on your adventures.
    Tell Mark to call me, I'm dying to hear from him. xoxo

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  2. Fantastic pictures, and the estate looks beautiful! More of a resort really...are u sure this isn't a vacation? :) thanks for the updates!

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  3. Hi Curt, we are enjoying your blogs - glad we are now getting to know your writing as well as your singing skills. By the way, Juan & I do belong to "the cartel", but its the Rotary one! Please say hi to the rest of the team & have a great time in Costa Rica. Andy & Roz

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